Sub-Case Study #1 (3) : Conclusion and Appendix

Will it work and will Vogue be able to maintain advertising revenues spend, add reader/consumers and keep its high quality content? The answer to that is critical for New York as a fashion and media centre. Today, New York City has the largest share of media jobs, including 20.4% of magazine publisher employment, and has more media company headquarters than any other city in the world.[1] Getting digital right will matter to New York’s capacity to attract media talent and to continue to generate well-paying jobs and the economic benefits that come from them.

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Appendix

 The Vogue Digital Family

1. Accessing Content

Vogue digital edition: the digital edition of the print magazine is available to subscribers on the Ipad, KindleFire, NookColor and Nook Tablet

Readers can sign up for specific fashion news items through Vogue Updates via email http://www.vogue.com/updates/

 As a fashion follower or insider, you can obtain specific information on brands, designers, photographers, editors, models and fashion turning points through Voguepedia  http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Main_Page

2. Interactive Channels

Vogue social media: Vogue has set up many interactive access points for readers, followers, commentators, fashion industry insiders etc.

a) Vogue on Twitter http://twitter.com/voguemagazine

b) Vogue on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/vogue 

c) Vogue TV http://www.youtube.com/user/VogueTV

Vogue is using YouTube to post videos, interviews and commentary on fashion: “Vogue.TV takes you behind the scenes to see the world’s greatest creative forces at work. Find the latest in fashion, beauty and culture and watch interviews with designers, models, actors and artists. See up-to-the-minute trend reports and more.”

3. Membership Promotions

VogueInsiders.com https://www.vogueinsiders.com/Portal/default.aspx  is a membership only site….getting an inside view of collections, products, and member-only events.


[1] NYC’s Digital Future: A Projection, Steve Rosenbaum, Huffington Post, January 9, 2012, http://www.huffingtonpost.com/steve-rosenbaum/nycs-digital-future-a-pro_b_1193889.html

Sub-Case Study #1 (2) : Vogue.com -Some video clips

1) CNN talks with Anna Wintour about Vogue and Vogue.com’s “bridging of the digital gap.”

http://www.cnn.com/video/#/video/tech/2011/06/15/taylor.vogue.anna.wintour.cnn

 

 2) An interview on Bloomberg TV with publisher of Vogue Susan Plagemann about Vogue’s digital strategy.

http://www.bloomberg.com/video/58366248-vogue-s-plagemann-interview-on-digital-strategy.html

 

3) A video interview with Bob Sauerberg, Publisher of Conde Nast, on May 23, 2012.

http://finance.yahoo.com/news/conde-nast-sauerberg-busy-innovating-173823612.html

 

Sub-Case Study #1 (1) : Vogue.com -How Condé Nast and Vogue are handling the digital age…

I mentioned in my sector overview that one of the facets of the world of fashion journalism in New York I would like to explore in this investigation is fashion and journalism’s relationship to social media. The world of journalism at large has seen a colossal migration of readers/followers/subscribers to a cyber forum. Companies like Vogue Magazine have had to adjust and adapt to this trend by creating internet avatars of themselves (Vogue.com). 

This section of my first sub-case study is a presentation of accumulated research I have conducted to address how the digitalization of Vogue has come about and what role social media plays in Vogue’s success as a company (maintaining followers/subscribers).

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Condé Nast, the parent company of Vogue Magazine, based in New York, is striving to maintain revenues from readers and advertisers by making its content fully accessible through digital channels. In the United States, Condé Nast publishes 18 consumer magazines, four business-to-business publications, 27 websites and more than 50 apps for mobile and tablet devices.

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Condé Nast employs over 3000 people in New York City (see article re Condé Nast move to World Trade Center One).

According to an online fashion industry comment, “to compete in the digital age, Condé Nast’s niche fashion publications are looking to digital platforms for continued growth, at home and abroad, a smart, if somewhat delayed, response to the ongoing digital revolution which continues to disrupt fashion media.”  The Business of Fashion, April 17, 2012.

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The Condé Nast Building in New York City

Condé Nast markets its digital strategy to potential advertisers with the message, “tablet devices have reinvented how we tell stories, how consumers interact with our content, and how advertisers connect with our audiences, all while maintaining the design fidelity and engagement of a print magazine. They also offer complete portability: Condé Nast’s content will be everywhere our readers go.” 

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VOGUE.COM

Condé Nast’s Vogue Magazine is one of the leading fashion industry magazines in the world, with a print audience of 11.4 million and an average online monthly audience of 1.2 million.

Vogue has begun to fully exploit the possibilities offered by digital and social media of all kinds. Grouped together under Vogue.com are several sites offering content, opening up options for audience engagement, and offering special promotions and membership-based programs.  (See appendix for all the Vogue.com channels)

From Vogue.com “The mission of Vogue.com is a simple one: In the overcrowded, unedited online space, who can you trust to curate the conversation surrounding fashion and culture? Positioning ourselves as the ultimate authority and resource, the aim of Vogue.com is threefold.

  • One, to produce the strongest editorial coverage from the point-of-view of our internationally recognized editors, photographers and writers;
  • Two, to engage Vogue.com readers in fashion’s most exclusive and educated online community,
  • and lastly to provide vast outlets and opportunities for advertisers and consumers.” 

Anna Wintour, editor of Vogue and of Vogue.com, believes that the digital version offers a very different experience to the viewer (e.g. instant information and access combined with “tough editing”), but acknowledges that the site is still working on building its viewers and users.

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Anna Wintour

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What’s Ahead for the Digital Strategy and How Does it Affect the Growth of Conde Nast?

Condé Nast and Vogue, as so many other print media in New York, are still trying to figure out how to make a digital strategy work in terms of securing subscription and advertising dollars.

 From a recent article in Women’s Wear Daily, it is clear that Condé Nast and Vogue are still in the early stages of their strategy.  “The format of choice for consumers is still print,” says Condé Nast president Bob Sauerberg. And so it is for Condé.  Apps, Web sites, tablets? They’re all dandy, showing some “real growth potential,” in Sauerberg’s words. But they’re no match for the dollars coming out of traditional magazine subscriptions. 

“A lot of what we’ve done has been focused on making sure that we have a business in digital that looks like print, and that we become agnostic to consumer preferences,” he said.  In the future, the publisher said that Condé Nast intends to offer tiered or bundled subscriptions, each with access to different products, from online archives to what he described as “branded experiences.” –Womens’s Wear Daily, May 24, 2012 

This means that Vogue subscribers in future will be able to buy different sets of products at different prices (from the basic magazine all the way to customized shopping). For example, Vogue has developed an app, Vogue Stylist, for the Apple IPhone and the Ipad. This app allows users to actually shop through the app. It is a marketing tool, and is “advertiser focused”. “Each month, Vogue Stylist gives you the back story on the top trends. Get inspiration from new looks curated by Vogue, and select and shop your favorite items from Vogue’s sponsors.” 

 

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The July 2012 Cover of Vogue Magazine

Sector Overview (4) : Works Cited

These are the URL’s to every cite consulted in writing the first 3 posts.

http://www.nycedc.com/blog-entry/fashionnyc2020

http://www.nycedc.com/sites/default/files/filemanager/Industries/Fashion/Fashion_IndustrySnapshot_2010.pdf

http://www.nyc.gov/html/nycmg/nyctvod/html/home/tsny_fashion_week.html

http://mashable.com/2010/02/13/fashion-industry-social-media/

http://www.exclusivelyfashionmag.com/articles/2009-5/fasionstats.html

http://www.oliverwyman.com/media/OW_EN_2012_PUBL_CIVT_Media_NYC_2020.pdf

http://moonlighthk.blogspot.ca/2012/04/fashion-social-media-how-new-york.html

http://www.forbes.com/sites/sap/2012/05/04/fashion-disruption/

http://www.condenast.com/fairchild

http://www.wwd.com/media-news/digital/ffm-acquires-blogger-network-5908816

http://www.digitalstyledigest.com/2012/05/why-fairchild-fashion-medias-blogger-network-buy-matters/

Sector Overview (3) : Case Studies Introduction- How they speak to my interests…

As part of my overall examination of the New York fashion journalism industry, I will be looking more specifically (in two case studies) at two corporations. I will be laying out how these two companies slot into the world of fashion journalism in New York at large and I will be using my study of each one to further my inquiries about the intersection of fashion and culture, how culture is created via fashion journalism and how modern corporations operating in the realm of fashion are adapting to the growing power and popularity of social media and

My first case study will examine Vogue Magazine (the print publication) as well as its online counterpart.

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My second specific examination will be conducted on Fairchild Fashion Media– the leading source in New York for fashion news and analysis.

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Sector Overview (2) : New York- the Godfather of Fashion AND Media

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New York is the capital city of the global fashion world. It is the headquarters of over 900 fashion corporations (more than double that of it’s closest rival- Paris). It is also a hub of design and home to some of the most prominent fashion schools in the world. The city’s bi-annual fashion week is one of the world’s foremost fashion events, attracting a flood of tourism with its consistent 200,000 guests each year. The fashion industry in New York represents a large portion (31%) of all manufacturing jobs in the city and its retail market is a massive 27% of the national wholesale market, making it the largest in America by a considerable margin. This market produces $15 billion in sales on an annual basis. The fashion industry in New York employs over 175, 000 people (5.7% of the city’s workforce. This translates into about $10 billion in total wages. NYC has the highest concentration of fashion professional in America. It has a particularly high percentage of the country’s designers- about 6, 750 of them! This is roughly 12% of the total designers in the U.S. As New York is home base for over 75 fashion trade shows and approximately 5000 showrooms, the fashion industry attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors annually, bringing millions of dollars into the city.

NYC is also the origin of many of the largest fashion publications- Vogue, GQ, etc. as well as some of the newest and most popular online fashion media vessels like the Sartorialist, The Business of Fashion, Refinery 29, etc.

The Big Apple is also a giant in the media world. More media positions and multi-billion dollar media corporations call New York their home than anywhere else in the world (approximately 17,000 media companies and 300,000 of their employees). The media climate in New York is that of giants. Many of the largest advertising firms, and the most lauded news agencies, print publications and television networks are their headquartered here. Two of the world’s three largest marketing agencies have their head offices and thousands of employees in New York. Additionally, corporations headquartered elsewhere often have a significant presence in NYC such as Google or WPP.

 New York has the largest percentage of media jobs in America, for example- 20.4% of magazine publisher and 15.4% of book publisher, 11.5% of film, and 11.2% of advertising employment takes place here.


Sector Overview (1) : A Rather Rudimentary Introduction to the Term “Fashion Journalism”

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The term “fashion journalism” is an all-embracing one that can be used to refer to any and all fields within the realm of published fashion media. Some of the most clear-cut examples of such media include printed fashion magazines, fashion features in newspapers and their online avatars. Books about fashion or fashion criticism, television or radio reports related to fashion  and fashion websites and blogs are also included considered part of fashion journalism at large. A correspondingly wide range of professions fall under the macro-field of fashion journalism. These include fashion critics, writers and reporters.

There is no “standard” job description for many fashion journalists. Their work is often quite diverse. Many write or edit articles for print or online publications. Some help style fashion photo-shoots or television programs. Almost all individuals working in this field spend a great deal of time researching, interviewing and networking with other members in the fashion community (designers, photographers, other writers, public relations specialists, etc). Fashion journalists can be employed fulltime by a specific publication (a magazine, online magazine, newspapers, etc.) or do freelance work. 


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Ironically, the word “journalism” is employed only colloquially when referring to fashion media as it is not meant to imply the carry-over of many of the formal procedural parts of professional journalism. Fashion journalism is often much more subjective than what we would imagine as traditional journalism. It handles trends, and inclinations which are all, at the end of the day, based on individual tastes.

I am interested in examining and discovering New York’s fashion journalism industry as a vessel for media chiefly because I am fascinated by the relationship fashion has to culture in New York. New York has always been the pillar of the global fashion world. The trends that emerge from the industry in this city and that are then popularized and marketed through fashion journalism are the trends that are worn by people everywhere. Indeed the styles that are born in New York are gifted to the outside world and through this process, new popular culture is created and then communicated

I am also interested in exploring the question of whether fashion journalism can really be called journalism at all. As stated, the term “journalism” is somewhat out of place as it applies to this field of work. When it comes to the fashion world, I must admit I wonder where the line is drawn between journalism and simple marketing? Yes, fashion journalism does convey styles and trends, but in this act of conveying, aren’t individual products and brands being explicitly marketed? Marketing and journalism seem to blur together in this industry. I would like to look at a specific case/publication that offer clear examples of this hybrid journalism-advertising domain. 

I’m also hoping to examine the relationship between the fashion industry and social media and how this takes place in the forum of new-age fashion journalism- the internet! 

Lastly, I want to take a look at New York’s bi-annual Fashion Week as a way of understanding and learning about how fashion interacts with culture and how this newborn culture is communicated through fashion journalism of various forms. 

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